Sunday 8 May 2011


There was always opposition to the use of India as a template for the promotion of contemporary decoration and pattern work, but this was usually based on religious, racial or classically inspired opposition, rather than technical or practical considerations. Interestingly these opposition voices tended to be of a relatively small nature, but this could have much to do with the fact that Henry Cole himself was an important civil servant who had managed to accrue a huge area of influence during the third quarter of the nineteenth century. Cole had at least a partial influence over a number of important individuals from the Prince Regent to a number of ministers within different governments of the period. Therefore, his belief in Design Reform gained both influence and momentum largely due to his position, that he could include a need to study and understand Indian textile work within this remit, gave the movement its real strategy for reform.

Although Indian textile work was held by many in Britain to be infinitely superior to anything that could be produced at home, there still appeared sporadic interference in the daily practical aspects of the industry. East Bengal in particular seemed to bear the brunt of at least a potential for British interference. Many letters, articles and journals were produced over decades concerning new and different ways of increasing the potential of Indian textile work. Many of these were produced by government officials in Calcutta (Kolkata), the British long-term capital of India, which was also within easy reach of the large textile producing area around Dacca (Dhaka), the present day capital of Bangladesh. Nothing was ever said as to the standard of the decorative pattern work itself and perhaps this says much about the British attitude in India to the decorative arts. It was probably understood that Britain had little, if anything to add to the pattern work being produced in India, but felt that perhaps they could contribute towards the better systematic running, at least on an industrial scale, of the industry.

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